Well I am officially on the cusp of being officially California. I woke at the break of dawn today and took my surfboard, yes you heard right, surfboard (well borrowed surfboard – shout out to Mr. Ben Snare for the loaner) and hit the waves! My buddy Nate took on the daunting task of trying to teach me to surf. He is a youth pastor so I figured him to be a good teacher of those in need. To be honest, I felt like a hopeless cause this morning but one thing I don’t lack, at least not this time is determination. So despite my failing with Nate, and yes I failed pretty miserably this morning, I hit the beach again this afternoon.
So I hit the beach by myself this afternoon determined to catch a wave. Or at least learn to balance on the freaken surf board. DON’T LAUGH, it’s harder than it sounds. I have the laying down, paddling and balancing thing down but as soon as I go to sit up I am done for, I look like I am trying to sit on a tightrope or something, I have no balance. Well I got a little better at the sitting balance thing but I still was far from catching a wave but what I did catch were some purple nurples. Remember when you were a kid and your friends would come up to you and grab your nipples as hard as they could and twist? Well feel like the surf board did that to both my little friends, they feel like they are going to fall off. And then somehow I jacked my shin as well… my first ever surfing war wound, blood and all!
So yea, not waves but I did catch a couple purple nurples and jacked shin.
Par for the course on my first ever real day of surfing.
Until next time
PS – here are a couple pictures, there will be more in my San Diego photo album soon. Keep checking it out!